Tungurahua Is At Rest....And Baños Is Empty

After a couple of weeks of almost constant activity, Tungurahua is now resting. Some days the activity was violent enough to cause the authorities to suggest that maybe it was time for folks to think about leaving Baños. The explosions were strong, and rattled window as far away as Salasaca. During the day you could see the clouds of ash that drifted to the west but Bañon was generally ash-free. From the center of Baños you are not able to see the top of the volcano although it is less then a mile away, but from the surrounding communities such as Salasaca when the peak was not shrouded with clouds, spectacular sights of the fiery eruptions were visible.

Today was a beautiful day, warm, sunny and empty. Walking around the city I was reminded of Yuma, Arizona at midday in the summer. It was hard to find anyone on the streets, or in the parks.



Even some of the most popular restaurants were closed for vacation.

The news media however, both national and international, continues to pass information about how dangerous it is and recommend that people change their travel plans which causes more financial losses to the merchants in Baños then they have ever suffered by actual damage caused by the volcano itself.

I have grown to hate most 24 hour news channels. It seems that in their quest to fill all the time with something spectacular they commit that despicable act of managing the news without checking the facts. One station announced to the world on January 6th or 7th that Tungurahua was erupting again and showed some footage of the August, 2006 eruption. I received e-mails from friends asking about it and a friend from Mexico arrived on the 8th, commenting about the big eruption that he said “looked bigger then that of 2006”. That was of course news, to the people of Baños who wondered how they could have slept through that one.

Project Stilts

Today was a wonderful day at Katitawa School. I repeated a project for the kids here that I had done for my own children when they were about the same age. Click on the title of the post for the story.

Katitawa....Nice article in El Comercio, Jan. 1, 2008

Check it out here.

New Years Eve.....Ambato

I walked around the center of Ambato around 4:30 this afternoon and there was not a whole lot going on. Compared to last year nothing. I will make another round around six. I did get a few pictures on Calle Vela, close to the 12th of November Park.


More later.

Christmas....2007.

My friend Linda, who lives across the Pastaza River from the small town of San Francisco, invited myself and some friends for Christmas. Linda's place is about a 45 minute trek into the mountains. When we got off the bus at San Francisco it was raining cats and dogs but we were not going to let a little rain dapen out Christmas spirit.
We arrived looking like drowned rats but after putting on some dry clothes we warmed up by the fire and had a wonderful time.

Let Me Tell You About Fabiola.

 

I met Fabiola more than two years ago, when Lorenzo, my weaver friend of mine from Salasaca brought her over to the spa and told me she needed a job. She was 19 and a very shy girl, dressed in the typical Salasacan dress. I told her I could use her if she was willing to do whatever needed to be done. She agreed and started the next day.

Well that shy young lady that arrived that day is still with me and helps in all of the projects that we are doing…..But she is not shy anymore. Where at first I would ask her to do something and she would only nod….today she will look at me and say..."I’ll get to that later as I have something more important to do now". She drives me a little crazy and at times I’ll admit that I am almost angry with her. When she sees that look, whatever it is that I give her, she will turn to whoever is around and say “He’s mad at me”, and I have to smile and usually I just say….”almost”.

I don’t think she has ever been to work on time. When she worked at the spa in Ambato, there was always an excuse. The busses were full, I had to feed the cows….or this or that. The list could go on and on.

When she was working at the school and her house was less than 10 minutes away she still had the same excuses except for the bus.

She is now working at the volunteer complex and her work habits have not improved. She knows and I know, that I will never tell her to find another job. And if she ever quit, I would miss her….a lot.

All of the above, I say with all of the love one person can have for another. She is part of my family of friends, that I have here in Salasaca. I am the godfather to her brother and I am not even Catholic. On my 74th birthday she hosted surprise party for me at the home of Jose her “novio”.

Almost a month ago now, Jose and a few members of the musical group left on a tour of Peru, Chili and Argentina. I don’t know who arranged it, but I hope they come back rich and famous. In the meantime Fabiola is coping with the loss. She and Jose have been together for a long time. She jokes about being liberated, but I know she cries when no one is around.

Recently, around the 1st of November when everyone was getting ready for the big party to honor the dead at the cemetery. I asked her if she was going to take care of me when I died. ( Which means preparing you for burial.) She said “yes, I will do that, but you need to leave me $4,000”. I asked her why, ”Because I will need to buy four cows”. “Four cows”?, I said. “Yes, because I will have to feed all of the people who will come to the funeral”. I doubt that it will be a four cow funeral, but it is jokes like that, that make me feel like I am doing something that is worthwhile.

The first of the year we are giving Fabiola a new job. Her passion in life is not cleaning and washing clothes, but dancing and being part of the local folkloric dance group. In fact, Fabiola helped prepare the children for their dances in the Christmas program.. After the program I talked with Rosa Maria about making the folkloric dances of Salasaca part of the curriculum here at the school, and have Fabiola teach the class once a week. She thought it was a wonderful idea so starting in January, Fabiola will be in her own element at least one day a week.

Baños Babes On Parade.

I went to Baños on Sunday to pick a volunteer for Katitawa and caught the tail end of the annual parade that is part of the two week long Baños Birthday Bash. Here are some pic's of some some Baños Babes....
And a few other entries.

Katitawa Christmas Program

Check it out on the Katitawa Page.

What We Really Need Is Cash.

Many people have asked, "What do you need down there?" Well we need a lot of things, and most of what we need is readily available here and the prices are fair. Some good hearted people have sent us materials and books for the library. The items have been sent priority mail, which is expensive, and we have to pay duty, not on the materials but on the amount that was spent for postage and insurance. More often then not the duty is equal to the cost of the items. If you are making a trip to Ecuador....Bring all you can as the duty is normally zero. If you want to bring a computer or something expensive we would appreciate it, but let us know ahead of time and we will advise customs that it is for the school.

There is a French tour company that has the Katitawa School on their itinerary and brings a bus load of French tourist by about once a month. They always bring a box of the most commonly used supplies which keeps us in pens, pencils, notebooks and such. This really helps and we rarely need to buy these types of supplies.

What we need, is money for maintenance and improvements.

We would also love to be able to raise the salary of our only paid teacher. Luis is a creative teacher, the likes of which you will not find in many schools. His salary is only $150.00 per month.

I know in today's economy, extra money is hard to find. However if you feel drawn to the donate button in the right hand colum, feel free

The Winds Have Changed....Salasaca & Ambato gets little ash.

Monday night the winds over Tungurahua changed and the ash that normally flows to the West, reversed and we got a little fall-out. Not much, but just enough to remind us that our neighbors to the West have this almost everyday.

There is no cause for alarm....If you are anywhere near Baños, plan to visit this weekend. The big two-week long birthday party has a lot of entertainment left....including the annual race of the wooden cars, or carts may be a better word, on Friday the 14th. Here are some pictures from the race in 2004.

Tungurahua Is Causing Concern.....Mostly for the farmers.

In the past few weeks the activity of Tungurahua has increased. It is spewing a lot of ash and for a couple of days last week the winds shifted to the east and gave Baños a little dusting.

The newspapers have been giving it a little more coverage then usual and that of course effects tourism. The first two weeks of this month are the fiestas that mark the anniversary of its founding. This is always a busy time of year and this year the numbers are way down. Let's hope the next two weeks will be better.

The farmers who grow their crops on the side of the mountain are getting so much ash that it is causing damage. These poor people who lost so much just one year ago are getting discouraged....They are tough people but there is just so much a mind and body can take.

Volunteers

It is hard to believe that 2007 is almost history. The year has been full and each day has been an adventure.

Bill and Debbie, volunteers from Scotland will be leaving for home in two weeks and we could use another volunteer, so if you are in the area and want something worthwhile to do please come on by. Our annual Christmas program will be presented on the 13th and you are all invited. Seriously, if you are in Baños we would love to have you visit….You may even want to stay.

When we first started this project, I was a little concerned about having so many different English teachers. I thought that it would be a problem for the kids….Getting attached, (and they do get attached), to one person only to have her leave and then having to get to know another. I have however, dismissed this concern as no problem. The kids are sad to see a friend leave but then they are excited when the next one shows up. They are getting an international course in English and I often wonder what kind of accent they will end up with.

It is wonderful to see the kids learn….I remember just one year ago in October or maybe it was November when we started the program not one word of English was in their vocabulary. Now….I am amazed. The volunteers have been absolutely wonderful.

When I think of the volunteers, I look around and see things that remind me of them….Their presence is still felt. They all left something behind that the children and myself will never forget. The other day Darwin, took the map of the world and pointed to Australia and said Mark and Adriana. All of the kids are like that. You give them a name and they will point to their home country.

Every time I enter the English classroom I see the different colored papers on the walls….showing the alphabet, days of the week, months of the year and “What is your name” and I think of Janneke. The kids will never forget Ian and the trip to the zoo, nor will I. His blue vest that he willed me and I am wearing today….A wonderful person who joined the Salasaca soccer team and helped finish a thatched roof for a family. He was ready to do most anything.

Each time I turn on the water pump I think of Elizabeth who hand delivered the new pump. She hated tomatoes and I can still see her picking them out of salads and soup. She is a beautiful girl and promises to be back next year. When I see the new roof on the old building or see the sign on the library I think of Enda and John. And, Hotel California and Julie are synonymous. Marco from Ireland, said he was born in 1969 and one of the kids said, “We have not had that vintage here since”.

The littlest kids and I water Marco’s apple trees and Adriana’s rose bush everyday. They promised to be back. And when I look at the new school sign or the “Wash Your Hands” in three languages over the sinks by the dining room I think of Ganga and the many nights we sat in the kitchen and played cribbage. And Rachel, a much giving women. I still see her at the kitchen table making up new games to teach new words to the kids and we still play them. And Sonia….from France. One of the easiest women to get along with I have ever had the pleasure of knowing. It did not mater what she was dong, she always loved doing it and if you didn’t giver her anything to do she found something. And now we have Bill and Debbie….They are still with us and when they leave I will miss them as well.

One day we had a couple from Chicago stop by for a visit and stayed three days…. And a young man from Israel who came by for a day and gave us some help.

I thank you all and you can be sure that the children remember you and they talk about each and everyone of you often. You have enriched all of our lives.

Library Up-Date

The library is gaining populariaty and we are getting students from other schools who come in the evening to get help with their homework. They also come looking for particular books that are refferenced by their teachers. The problem is that most of these books are fairly new and we do not have them. We are taking note of them and would like to buy some of them in Quito. This takes dollars that we do not have so we are looking for some sponsors who would like to help.

If this strikes you as something that you would like to help with, please feel free to hit the donate button below. This fund has a new number and all the donations will be used to buy books.

Thanks for your help.

A Morning To Remember

I awoke this morning to the public announcements that started at 5:34 according to my cellular telephone that I mostly use as an alarm clock. That had to be a new record for the earliest wake-up call.

I was alone in the volunteers compound this morning, as Bill and Debbie, volunteers from Scotland, had gone to Quito to get their Volunteer Visas processed. So after a leisurely breakfast I decided to head for the school about 15 minutes ahead of my normal 7:30 departure time. As it turned out I left early and arrived late.

The morning was crisp and clear and one of those rare days when there was hardly a cloud to be seen in any direction. A perfect day for a hike.

As I crossed the highway and headed north along the dirt road, I looked up and there right in front of me was Cotopaxi, a 5,897 meter volcano whose peak is always covered with snow. This was the first time in all the mornings I have made this walk that I had been able to see this magnificent mountain. And as a added touch there to my left was the almost full moon in the morning sky left over from the night before. My camera of course was in Ambato,

I made the right turn which takes me to the west, which kept Cotopaxi to my left. I looked back to the south/east and there was the ice covered peak of Chimborazo and the jagged peaks of Carihuaicazo about 10 km in front. From where I was the snow on Carihuaicazo looked almost black as it gets an almost daily dusting of ash from Tungurahua. The ice and snow are fading on this mountain….due to global warming some say. However, I’ll blame Mama Tungurahua for its loss.

Up ahead I saw Tungurahua, an impressive mountain, but the peak and crater are obscured by clouds. All of a sudden I saw this large plume of gas and steam rising straight up from the clouds and as it rose it turned into a huge cloud. Normally the winds move the clouds quickly to the left, but this morning they just seemed to hang there and grow. On other days, the eruptions sound like cannon shots and then you see the black ash thrown upwards, but today the mountain sounded like a large furnace that just can’t get enough air.

At the cemetery I cut through the eucalyptus grove and on up the hill. I could no longer see Cotopaxi because it was hidden by the low hills in front of me and I could only hear Tungurahua which was now behind me, but looking to my right was Chimborazo. I stood and looked at it for many minutes before moving on. Knowing full well that in a few minutes it could be shrouded with clouds and who knows when it would show again.

So today I was slowed by the events taking place around me. The school van passed me and I waved....happy that I had lived a different experience then the children who just passed me, although we had traveled on the same road,

I would like to dedicate this post to all of the volunteers who have made this walk with me. I missed you this morning.

Is There A Librarian Whe Reads This Blog?

We are looking for a librarian who would like to come to Salasaca and show us how to run a library. We now have enough books where we need a good filling system. Can anyone recommend a program for a small library that would make the job easier? We would appreciate your advise and your help.

Alo....

This picture is dedicated to all of the volunteers who have been here. We had an electric storm a few nights ago and it was my wish that one of the bolts would take out this tower....But when the storm passed the tower was still there.If anyone wants to add something to this post, feel free.

The Library Is Looking Better And Better

The library now has its own page. Click here to view.

Yes....You can help.

As the months fly by and we close in on Christmas, I would like to offer you an uniqe opportunity to help.

I came to Ecuador three and a half years ago without any real plan. I just took things as they came and if you have been a long time reader of this blog you have seen that everyday has been an adventure. I don't know why I ended up in Salasaca but through fate or happenstance I am here and it feels like I am doing exactly what I am supposed to doing.

Our volunteers have been wonderful and as one of them said in a recent e-mail, "the two weeks spent in Salasaca go down as the best two weeks of her South American adventure. That feeling seems to be the rule rather than the exception.

The expenses for the projects here are funded solely by donations. We receive no government support, (nor do we want any), and survive solely on donations. Most of these come from family and friends of the volunteers who have spent time here. We are grateful for their help.

We have three paid employees who are paid by the foundation, Clemente, Fabiola and Fanny. We do offer the volunteers a place to stay and make sure that they do not go hungry, however they all seem to want to help and contribute to the food supply.

We are making a difference here in Salasaca and could really use some additional help. If by some chance you feel drawn to the donate button in the right had side of the page, we could use your help. A donation of any size will be appreciated.

Sumak Kawsay Yachay....Foundation for learning.

Click on the above title to see how you can volunteer to help us in our projects in Salasaca.

Katitawa School

To find out what is new at Katitawa School juch click on the title of this post.

A New Beginning at Katitawa School

September the 4Th marked the beginning of our second year of English classes at Katitawa. Although we had five graduate we still have six of the older kids returning. Four of the six are doing exceptionally well and it is great to see their progress.

We also have four of the littlest kids who have moved up from the kindergarten. Last year we had two one and a half hour sessions per week and now we have a one hour class everyday. Since we are a small school we are able to limit the classes to four children per class which is great for teaching a new language to kids who already speak Spanish and their native Kichwa. For the rest of the story click here.and you will be linked to the Katitawa School site.

New Hours For The Library.

The Biblioteca Rosa Maria is now open every day from 2 til 7. We have hired one of the brightest English students who attended the vacation classes at Katitawa. Her name is Fanny and attends high school in Salasaca.

She is pictured below with Robert in front of the library.We now have more than 600 books, in Spanish, Kichwa and English. We hope to have at least a thousand by the end of the year.

To help pay some of the expenses, a few of the local weavers have put some of their work on display and have agreed to give us a commission on what we sell.

We invite all visitors on their way to Baños to get off the bus and spend at least a couple of hours in Salasaca. Who knows you may want to stay a while and take away an unique Ecuadorian experience.

We provide free accomodations and food for our volunteers and have no fees. All we want is your time.

Return to Tungurahua....A year later.

A year ago, August 2006, Jose and I, along with a couple of friends made the trek from Cotalo, across the Champa River, through the devestation of the July eruption, to Cusara and on to Baños. In August of 2007, Julie from Canada, Nieve from Ireland, Fabiola, Jose and I took the trip again and found that the terain had changed considerably after the mid-August eruption.Decending halfway down the mountain from Cotalo we look across at Tungurahua and wonder if we can even get across the large canyon that was carved last August.

The hike down from Cotalo and across the river was the same as the year before but sfter a short up-hill trek we came to the area where the lahars flows have created several canyons blocking our path....Some of them very deep.

This was our first little detour to get across a gap where a bridge had been taken away. As we learned a little later this was a "piece of cake".
When we started this downhill we were not sure if we could get across or not. The sand was very unstable and at this point Fabiola was in front and started to slide. I jumped in front and used my boots to stop her. It was not not life thretening as we were pretty close to the bottom by that time....Just a little scary.

After this crossing the rest of the trip to Baños great. We walked into Baños five and a half hours after we left Cotalo. What an adventure.

Thank you Julie for the great pictures.

Biblioteca Rosa Maria

The new sign over the door of the library in Salasaca village.

One of the on-going projects that the volunteers are working on is the setting up of a library in Salasaca village. The library will serve as a place where the children and adults alike can go in the evenings to read and supplement their classes at Katitawa school.

The beginning stages of the library.


So far most of the books in the library have been donated by friends and family of the volunteers. We have also had some money donated towards the library, which went to buying books. We bought these books in "Libreria Española" on Av. Colon in Quito (Thanks to the staff there for their help and discounts offered!) Finally, the "English Book Store" on Calle Calama in Quito has donated some children's books.

As always, anyone interested in helping out can hit the "Make A Donation" button.

Enda, Robert and John outside the library.

Our Volunteers....Past and Present.

The young people who have volunteered here in Salasaca have been great. Learn a little more about them at our Sumak Kawsay Yachay Foundation site. We would not be able to do what we are doing without them.

I will be going to Baños tomorrow afternoon with Fabiola to pick up a new volunteer that Lorenzo at the Casa Hood Restaurant talked into spending a little time teaching English at the Katitawa School. We have two weeks left of the Summer Session and we are two teachers short. Thanks Lorenzo.

Vacation English Classes At Katitawa

Vacation school English began on July 9th. We really did not know what to expect as to the number of kids who would show up but was very pleased with the turnout.We started out the day with 20 students and before the week was out we had 30. We split them into three groups seperating them by age and ability.
Elizabeth took the most advanced. This group was made up mostly with Katitawa students who she had worked with during the school year. For the rest of the story please visit the Katitawa School Site

Katitawa School Projects

We have many projects at the Katitawa School. Here on the Baños Ecuador blog I will list them and if you click on the titles you will be taken to the various posts on the Katitawa School page where you will find a description and the progress being made.

Sports Court...Soccor, Basketball, Volley Ball area.

New walkway at the entrance to English classroom.

Ian's Thoughts

I have to say that my expierience here in Salasaca has been more than normal, infact it has been extraterrestrial. I mean that in a good sense. The people are inviting and loving. I believe that there reaction to my being here is positive in part to my activities at Katitawa school. I am not sure wether my life style and interations with the teachers and students at Katitawa have made me smell better, or if the fact that I am living a good life has caused such a positive response from each and every person I come in contact with. I lean towards the idea that the children I am teaching are teaching me. I hope that the impact these kids are having on my life is reflective. It has been almost a month and I am torn with the decision of leaving. On the one hand I miss my family and friends and have a long way to go before I make it back to Texas by land. On the other hand, I feel that leaving here will be like leaving new family and friends that I have only just begun to know. When I arrived the openess and acceptance of all the people was shocking. Usually there is some barrierors to break through before people let you in, here there are no walls, instead the farmers of this community separate their plots of land by useing large agaves. This is one metaphor that explains alot about the society here. I am a teacher here in Salasaca, but more than that I have become a friend. For all of those reading this, it would do you good to visit, even for just a day.
Ian Chambers

Live And Learn....There Is A Better Way To Send Books.

First of all I want to thank everyone who has sent books for our library. It is growing little by little and we will be open everyday starting next week. I would like to see more tourist on their way to Baños, jump off the bus and spend a few hours in Salasaca or maybe even overnight. I would love to show you around and any books that you brought would be worth a nights lodging at the volunteers quarters, if we have an extra bed available.

Now that I have brought up the subject of books I would like to relate my last experience with the Post Office here in Salasaca.

I received a message from the post office in Salasaca advising me there were three boxes in customs at the Ambato Post Office and I needed to pick them up before noon that same day or they would send them back...wherever back would be. I got the message around 9AM. So with a deadline three hours away, I left the school in the rain and headed to Ambato. Because of the road construction going on at each end of Salasaca, I had to walk to an area at the outskirts of Pelileo to get a bus to Ambato and arrived at the Post Office around 11:00.

This was my first experience with Customs at the post office so I did not know what to expect. As it turned out there were indeed three boxes of books sent by two different people in Texas. The labels stated that the contents were a donation and I was armed with a letter from the officials of the school district to the customs officials requesting that any duty that might be due be waived. After checking the contents I was surprised that the customs agent got out his calculator and started punching numbers. He then looked up and said in a very calm voice. "That will $94.00 (and some change). I looked up and said, "Your not serious?" and he said "Tes I am." I then went into my poor school routine but it had no effect. I asked weather the letter from the officials had any weight at all? I was told that it did and there was no duty charged on the books...Only the postage. And since there was no way I could take the books and they keep the stamps I had to figure a way to come up with the money. Unfortunately, these kind folks from Texas and undoubtedly friends or family of our last volunteer, Inn Chambers had sent the packages Priority Mail at a cost of $275.

What I learned was:
1. If you are going to send anything by mail send it the cheapest way.
2. If the weight is two kilos or less, it does not go through customs and therefore no duty.
3. If it is more than two kilos you must pay duty on the contents and 30% duty on the postage.
4. This tax only applies to items sent by mail. The 30% does not apply if you send by other means.

I did ask the agent what would happen if we could not raise the money. He told me they would be put in storage and a judge would decide what to do with them. I commented that maybe the judge would donate them to the school and the agent responded, maybe, but we would have to wait a year.

I will not abandon the books to chance and next week I will deliver the money and take the books.

A final note....We need more books and if you send them by mail just make sure that the package is less than two kilos. In the meantime we are trying to get one of the air carriers to ship them for free. I will keep you advised on how we are doing in this regard.

Thanks again for the books....We learned a good lesson and education is not free.

I really would like to know if other countries are this creative in their tax laws.

Chimborazo....The Highest Peak In Ecuador

On Thursday afternoon we were treated to a rare view of Chimborazo. This majestic ice covered volcano is 20,000 plus feet above the leval of the sea.
The jagged snow covered peakes to the right of Chimborazo is Carihuairazo. It is an inactive volcano that stands a mere 16,496 feet about sea leval. Carihuairazo in Kichwa means Man, Wind, Ice or Windy Ice Man.


Another view of Chimborazo. This one taken at sunrise from a forth floor hotel room window in Riobamba. Pretty nice site from a ten dollar a night room.