Just a few kilometers east of the village of San Francisco is Rio Negro, a 70 year old of about 1,000. The first time I visited this quaint little town I looked for the Black River but only found the Pastaza. Although the river is far from clear it is not black. One of the residents told me that there is indeed a Black River a little West of town. Since this town is in the middle of what is known as the Corridor Ecological Amazona and there are plenty of reasons to spend some time and explore the area. There are several restaurants and small hostels for the tourist who would like to spend more time. From San Francisco or Margarita Ville you can take the bus for $0.25 or walk. You can always bus back.
At the east end of town there is a road to the right that crosses the Pastaza and takes you up the mountain beside the beautiful Rio Estancia, taking you ultimately to the a small village by the same name. The walk is a pleasant one with breathtaking views of the Eestancia River with an abundance of the beautiful Sobralia Rosea orchids growing along its banks.
Photo by J. Walker
Three kilometers from the Puyo Highway you pass a Hari Krichner compound and one km further, brings you to a to the beautiful Hosteria Encanto Natural.
Photo by J. Walker
This hostel is a little out of the way but would be a perfect place for a group get together or special retreat where you want to get away from the crowds and yet have all the comforts of a first class resort. If interested you will find more information here.
One kilometer past the hostel you come to a trout farm where you can catch your own trout and have it cooked to your order. Medium sized fish dinner is $2.50 and a large is $3.00.
The best way to make this trip is walking or by bicycle. The walk along the Estancia River is one of the highlights of the trip. I have been told that there are some trout in the river…probably fugitives from the trout farm up stream. The round trip from Rio Negro is about 10 kilometers, and if you don’t cotton to the idea of walking roundtrip you can always taxi up from Rio Negro and walk off lunch on the return. A taxi/pick-up cost $2.00 for the trip.
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