River Rafting on the Pastaza River

A popular activity in Banos is rafting down the Pastaza. This group has just arrived at one of the put-in points for experienced river runners which is located just a couple hundred meters west of Margarita Ville.


Photo by J. Walker

After carrying the raft to the water the group is ready to go....With or without the guide.


Photo by J. Walker

The Pastaza changes colors depending on the time of day and the cloud cover....From a chocolate brown to a slate grey. Certainly not one of your favorite swimming rivers.


Photo by J. Walker


Photo by J. Walker

Miscellaneous shots around Margarita Ville

One of the many nameless waterfalls in the area.

Photo by J. Walker



Photo by J. Walker

Margarita Ville

Just 25 KM from Baños, (25 minutes by bus), on the Puyo highway, is a wide spot in the road called San Francisco. There is not much there, outside of a few houses, and a general store.

Margajita River

Photo by J. Walker

A few hundred meters past the "City Center" is the Margajita River and a small resort consisting of three A-frame cabins, river fed swimming pool, main house on the highway and an outside restaurant...And just about the prettiest scenery you could ever imagine.


Photo by J. Walker

A month ago I received an E-Mail from a friend of mine who lives in Mexico, advising me that a friend of his, for many years, was bored in Cabo San Lucas and was going to visit Baños. When Lorenzo Walters arrived, I gave him a tour of the neighborhood, so to speak, and when I showed him the property that was for lease on the Puyo Highway, he went a little nuts. A couple of days later he asked me if I wanted to go 50-50 on the place. I guess going nuts is contagious because a week later, we have "Margarita Ville".

The main house and restaurant are on highway level.
Margarita Ville on the Margajita River.

Photo by J. Walker

One of the most popular activities here in Baños is a bicycle trip to Puyo. Since it is 90% downhill it is an easy trek even if you are a little out of shape. All of these trekers have to pass Margarita Ville, and our first order of business is to get flyer/maps in the hands of all of the bike-rental companies with our new name highlighted and offering, Coke, Beer or a pitcher of Margaritas. If they go for the pitcher we may have them for the night. I suggested to one of the outfiters that they sell them a two day trip with an overnight. No need to fly by these natural wonders, that should be seen in two or three days at the least. Hardly anyone bikes the return. They put the bike on the top of a bus and ride in comfort.

Looking up to the main house and restaurant.

Photo by J. Walker


Photo by J. Walker

The sleeping units are clean and comfortable. Each cabin has two levels and sleeps up to six.


Photo by J. Walker

We are not overly optimistic about the overnighters, so we have decided to turn one of the units into an English school for the pre-school children from San Francisco and Rio Negro. There is sufficient room for two volunteers to live in the upper level and have the lower level for a class room. If anyone is interested in this type of volunteer work please let me know.

For continuing information on what is going on at Margarita Ville and the English school for toddlers click here.

Carnival in Baños

The Carnival Celebration was a little tame for the younger generation but just right for me. There were parades and fireworks and a few cultural events. The streets were blocked off for the better part of a week and it was nice to walk around without the traffic. The town was completely full as Monday and Tuesday were national holidays giving everyone a four day weekend.

There were not many water balloons, but there was a big business being made with a special “Carnival Foam” spray. It came in different colors and although it looked pretty bad during the first attack, I found that it disappeared in five or ten minutes and did not leave stains. Before Tuesday was history, I was looking for a store to buy a can so that I at least I could fight back.

t is still a wonder to me, how you can have all of that rowdy fun, mixed with a lot of beer and not have one altercation, at least that I saw, during the entire carnival celebration.

What´s new in Baños

It is official...I am now a legal resident of Ecuador. Shortly after arriving in Baños I realized that if I traveled the world I would probably not find a better place to call home, at least for now, then where I was. The process of becoming a legal resident is extremely simple, but not easy...the frustrations caused by typical bureaucrats, who are the same the world over, made the process an adventure. After eight trips to Quito, I walked away yesterday with my visa, and a wealth of information about the process. I realized, after the second visit that I could have saved a lot of time if I had accepted the services of one of the many lawyers that hang around the visa office, but being the stubborn person that I have always been, I elected to tough it out and do it myself. I am glad I did....I got to know Quito better and I learned a lot about Ecuadorian culture.

After the Christmas and New Years celebrations, Baños has been calm for the last three weeks. The weather has been beautiful....mostly sunny days, a few rainy nights and although the calendar says it is summer, the temperature is about the same as the middle of winter or spring....a little less rain. Three Kings Day, the 6th of January is not a big celebration here in Ecuador as it is in other Latin countries. In Mexico, it is a day for gifts for the children and the special cake with the plastic doll that is baked inside. In Columbia it is a holiday with a lot of people in the streets spraying each other with colored substances, with the festivities continuing with music and booze until the early morning. But here in Baños....nothing, if you did not look at the calendar, you would miss it altogether.

Carnival, however, is just around the corner. It will start on the 2nd or 3rd of February and end at midnight on the 8th. There are many events planned for these days but as yet there is not a firm schedule. There is a custom in Ecuador of throwing water balloons at each other and dropping them from the roofs of buildings, on the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. Here in Baños the sport has been banned because the tourist do not know weather to get angry or join in. Although the custom is officially banned, according to my friends the young people still participate. When they run out of balloons they may use eggs or avocados or what whatever they can get their hands on. One friend said it is best to stay off the streets unless you want to get wet. I will see first hand in a couple of weeks, just what happens...maybe a raincoat will be in order. It is expected, during these days that the town will be full. If you plan to visit, a reservation might be in order.

Well now that I am a resident, I plan to keep busy on some projects that I have been considering. The first is the library. My first call for books, netted a few, and I thank the donors very much.. I realize that the cost of postage can be several times the book cost so this was not a very practical idea. I would also like to find a way to put a couple of computers in the library and connect them to the internet. It will be a great investment in the future of this community. More on this later. It is a fine line that I have to walk, so as not to offend, and yet make a difference. I have made friends with a number of Bañeros who have lived here all of their lives, some young and some old. I keep remembering the book...The Ugly American....where this physically ugly Peach Corp volunteer changed the lives of a small village in SE Asia by setting about to do his work with the materials at hand. In a short time the locals were asking him how he made the improvements and when he showed them, they copied his ideas. If he had tried to force his ideas on them he would have made a difference, but not without some resentments.

This is a great town to live in, with so much natural beauty that I would hate to see it change. Everything necessary to be happy is here. We have no super markets or shopping malls...but those places just make a person want more and if you don´t have the money to buy the latest gadgets you feel deprived. I have always felt that no mater what you have, it is human nature to want more and herein lies the beginning of discontent. The solution is to get rid of some of your wants and peace returns. And that is what I have found here...the people have a decent life style and for the most part are content. The retired people living on pensions are the group that needs help most. It is sad to see them lined up at the bank to get their monthly $30 payment. Even here it is just not enough.

Welcome 2005

First of all, I want to wish everyone a very happy and prosperous 2005. As always, when I look back on the previous year it seems that it flew by, and yet when I think about all that happened, the adventures and the misadventures, it brings back so many memories that I wonder how it all could have happened in one short year. The past year was not without disappointments, but that is life, and I don’t think I would enjoy the experience half as much without a few, just to keep things in perspective. It was a great 2004 and I look forward to a greater 2005.

Here in Baños, life continues to be an adventure. The Christmas Season started somewhere near the first of November when some of the businesses put up Christmas trees, however, I did not feel the commercial undercurrents that motivates people to spend more than they can afford, even though there were plenty of advertisements on the television.

One might think that the town would be “fiesta’d out” after the eight-day birthday party, but starting Christmas Week, there were parades almost everyday, put on by the different schools in Baños and the surrounding communities. On Christmas Eve, many people go to mass at midnight and Christmas day it is business as usual for most people.

New Years Eve is another story...today I saw many cars and trucks with effigies of someone strapped to the front bumper. When I inquired as to the significance, I was told that these dolls represented someone who had given them problems during the year. It could be anyone....your wife, your husband or a politician. (All in fun I am told). At midnight these along with others, large and small will be burned after a reading of their last will and testament

During the day and night there are many people dressed in all sorts of costumes roaming the streets. During the day they will stop busses and cars with a cord stretched across the street or highway and ask for money. During the night if you are not wearing a costume you will be asked for money by those who are. If you are wearing a costume you are home free, so it could be much cheaper to make a costume and buy a mask.

After living through my first New Year’s Eve in Baños, the words that first come to mind “It’s a Riot”. Some “Barrios” really take the whole thing seriously, making elaborate displays, blocking off entire streets for their own block party.


Photo by Alex Hernandez


Photo by Alex Hernandez

This is my friend and photographer, Alex Hernandez. Anyone that would take a spike in the head so that he could save a few pennies or make a few...deserves at least a dime.

Photo by Alex Hernandez

Walking around town in the early evening, trying my best to dodge the hoards of ghouls who are bent on extracting money whenever they catch you, I realized I had better find somewhere to change my dollars into smaller coins. These are not just children ....these are people of all ages who are definitely young at heart. During my wanderings I saw all sorts of effigies....In front of one restaurant I saw what appeared to be the chef. In front of the market was the likeness of the manager and the butcher. Of course there were likenesses of the local police, the jailer and of course the President. Even Bart Simpson with his slingshot and two of his victims were represented...all awaiting their fiery demise.


Photo by Alex Hernandez


Photo by Alex Hernandez

Around 11:30PM, I went to the roof of the building where I live, which gave me a view of the whole city and waited for the climax. From there, I could hear at least four different bands at various points in the city. Thousands of people were in the streets and fireworks were erupting from everywhere. This went on for about a half hour and at 12 midnight, bonfires were set on every street and the effigies creamated.


Photo by Alex Hernandez

The music continued for several hours before things started to quiet down. It was a wonderful experience and although the booze flowed freely, I saw no fights or wanton disregard for the rights of others.

New Years Day....after a cloudy beginning, the clouds cleared and we had a beauty sunny day....a wonderful beginning for 2005. With the exception of the Santa Maria Supper Market which was closed....business was normal. Because of the long holiday weekend, the city was packed.

The Fiestas de Baños 2004 Are Now History

The 60th anniversary of the founding of Baños is now history. The eight day celebration started with an Albazo throughout the streets of the city at 5:00Am on the 9th of December and finished with a concert and fireworks display in the Palomino Florez Park in front of the City Hall on the 16th. The “Albazo” is a Spanish word meaning, dawn attack, or maybe reveille. Most of the population awoke to the sound of music provided by a band sitting on top of a small bus, as it drove through all of the streets of Baños. From this awaking it was almost non-stop activities for the next eight days.

There were events for all ages and interests. Chess tournaments on the main street; bicycle races from Baños to Puyo, a distance of about 30 miles and mostly downhill; bicycles and tricycle races in town for the kids from five years to eight years old; there were cake sales; art fairs; a volleyball tournament with nearby towns competing; parades; a soccer match between Quito and Baños with Quito taking the trophy. The list could go on and on.

On the seventh day of the festival, Baños was treated to a concert by the Metropolitan Orcastra of Quito. They preformed for more than an hour inside the Basilica. They played a variety of music which included Glenn Millers, In The Mood.

Photo by Alex Hernandez

During these days, although an event would end late at night, with all the trash that is thrown by the crowd, the next morning when you walked down town the streets were clean and looked as if nothing had happened the night before. If they needed a stage for an event, they blocked off the street and with 12, 55 gallon drums, 12 large bamboo polls, a little rope, a few plywood sheets and some canvas, in less than an hour you had a covered bandstand. The following morning there was no evidence that an event had even taken place.

On the first day of the Fiesta de Baños, the 40th running of the Carrera de Coches de Madera. (Race of the Cars of Wood.) This race starts about 20 KM outside of town, at a place called The “U” de Pelileo. There were 42 cars entered for this years race. From this point it is approximately 90% down hill to the finish line in the center of Baños. When there is an uphill grade the drivers must get off and push. When they enter the city they come down a “S” curve, across the Bascun Bridge and when they run out of steam they need to push the car about 500 meters to the last down hill run on Martinez Street at Gonzalo Diaz de Pineda.

An hour before the race the first enthusiast start arriving. And who could be more enthusiastic then kids.

Photo by J. Walker

A fallen tree makes pretty good bleachers-

Photo by J. Walker

The police clear the street anticipating the first cars.

Photo by J. Walker

This is the most dangerous part of the race as the downhill grade on this section of Martinez is about 30 degrees or more.This picture gives a feelins of how steep the downhil grade.

Photo by J. Walker

As the cars cross Pastaza Street they are actually airborne and when the wheels touch down, some loose control and crash into the crowd injuring both the drivers and spectators alike. The race this year was not without injuries. Thirteen people were taken to the hospital...five had broken bones and one had a head and neck injury.



Photo by J. Walker



Photo by J. Walker



Photo by J. Walker



Photo by J. Walker

Although the police are there to keep the crowd out of the way of the on-coming cars, is almost a sport to temp fate as the crowd envelopes the oncoming car. At times accidents are caused because the crowd doesn’t move fast enough. Just like Pamplona....only these are not bulls.

Photo by J. Walker

The race is against the clock and each car leaves the starting point at approximately one minute intervals. Even with this one minute separation some of the cars overtake the one in front. This year, one car was trying to pass on the steepest part of Martinez and clipped the rear wheel and they both flipped. That accident sent several to the hospital.

A few years ago, the city changed the final leg of the race to come down Montalvo Street which does not have the grade of Martinez. The race was completed without accidents and the next year it was moved back to Martinez. As one person told me...”A race without accidents, is not a race.”

Over the years, the all wooden cars have evolved into hybrids of wood, metal and even some with inflated tires. It was interesting to see that the cars with hard wooded wheels had better times then the numatic tires. All of the cars that finished made the trip in from 35 to 49 minutes. The contestants are mostly from Baños but several come from other cities to win the coveted trophies. A very emotional afternoon.


There were two major parades in this years festival.

Pregón de Fiesta...This parade took place in the afternoon of the second day. It started at 2:00PM and ended close to six. For a town the size of Baños it seemed to be a very long parade.



Photo by J. Walker



Photo by J. Walker

Although there were many beautiful children in the parade...this is my favorite.

Photo by J. Walker

Most of the town turns out all along the parade route as most of the businesses close, at least until their child has passed in review. The theme of the parade was the “La Alegria y Encanto de Baños”, more or less....The happy and enchanted life in Baños.

The Military Parade is always held on the 16th. This parade was impressive as each school participated with a band, and all of the senior grades marched in uniforms. The bands were made up of mostly drums. I counted 50 in one unit from one of the larger schools. The students have practiced for the last month for this parade and for the most part they were very good. Close to where I live there is a night college that practiced at least an hour for this event each night, starting around 9:30PM, in the parking lot of the bus station which is across the street from where I live. If you can imagine 40 or 50 drums beating for an hour at this time of night, I was obviously happy when the big parade day came. I watched with special interest when this group passed. They looked stunning in their white uniforms and as they passed I had to admit that all that lost sleep was a small price to pay to view their performance.

It was a wonderful week. Everyone has a great time and if you plan now you can watch the 41st running of the Race of Wooden Cars....live.

My photographer friend....Jessie Walker.

Photo by J. Walker

Jesse Walker has taken many of the pictures that are displayed here on my blog. They are Copywrited and All rights are reserved.

Bird of Paradise

Photo by J. Walker

A Project To Get Excited About

A few days ago, Guido Washington, a young attorney in town, asked me if I was interested in looking at some property he had and hearing about his plan to develop it into a nature park for the tourists. I am always interested in an adventure so off we went.

Our first stop was at the basilica where he showed me the large painting of one of the famous miracles attributed to the virgin of the Holy Waters, where a man was pulling himself across the San Francisco gorge in a small basket suspended by ropes anchored to a large tree on the Baños side. The rope broke and I presume the man plunged into the Pastaza river a hundred meters below. He was saved, according to legend by the intervention of the Virgin.


Photo by Alex Hernandez

From the church we proceeded to the San Francisco Bridge which spans this same gorge only at a higher level. This modern bridge was built in 2000-2002, after the townspeople returned from their forced exile when the government was taking precautions for the safety of the inhabitants, while preparing for the worst. This new bridge replaces the old foot bridge, and will serve as an efficient evacuation route should it ever be needed in the future.

From here we took a small trail that led down to the old foot bridge which is still in service and used by a few locals as a short cut to their small farms to the north of the city.

Below the new bridge is a whole new adventure.

Photo by J. Walker


View of the old from the new.

Photo by J. Walker



Photo by J. Walker


Here is the historic tree that is pictured in 1940 painting in the basilica, that once anchored the cable for the perilous trip across the river. During the construction of the new bridge the tree was almost destroyed but the owner managed to save most of it.


Photo by J. Walker

Trunk of this historic tree.


Photo by J. Walker


The project as I understand it will be to improve the trails on both sides of the river. as well as reconstruct the trail that goes to the left of the foot bridge to a little know waterfall where the Bascun River empties into the Pastasa. The area to the South which is on the right side of the above photo will be landscaped with native plants of various species. The round-house will serve as a snack bar and information center. This nature park will be a place where the locals and tourists alike could come for a hike The hike in and out of the area will be a loop that will take them on both sides of the river.



Photo by J. Walker


The trail construction, at this point is most important. Washington would like to have help in this part of the plan. The problem with trails in this area where there is a lot of rain is to build a trail that will have little impact on the natural surroundings and not be washed away every few months. Trail building is an art...if there are any professionals in this line of work and looking for an adventure, here is your excuse to come to Baños.

There is going to be a party...Dec 9th through the16th.

It is a beautiful warm spring morning here in Baños de Agua Santa. The city is getting ready for the big birthday party that starts on the 9th of December, when at 5 AM there will be an “Albazo” in the streets of Baños. There will be music moving along all the streets announcing the beginning of the fiesta. For the next eight days there will be fireworks off the San Francisco Bridge, coronation of the queen, all sorts of contests, dancing in the parks, great music and a whole lot more....so I am told. It all culminates on the night of the 16th with the “Notche de Luces” and a dance at the Palamino Florez Parrk,.in front of the city hall. I can’t think of a better time to visit Baños.

It`s Hard To Teach An Old Dog New Tricks...

Photo by J. Walker


Although there are plubic facilities at different places around the city, there are still a few who can´t be bothered...and just take a "whiz" when ever nature calls. The local paper and a few property owners are trying to get those few to change their custom. This sign on a wall says it all. "The posts and walls are not urinals...so show your curlture." 

New Spa in Baños.

The New Life Natural Therapies Center, (Cemtro de Therapies Naturales Vida Nueva), opened last weekend on Oriente Street, just two and a half blocks from the basilica. The services include: steam boxes, as well as individual compartments for couples or families, three massage rooms, hot tub, mud baths, and a juice bar.

The steam bath is a multistage process, and cost $5.00 for the 45 minute session. Let`s tag along and watch the procedure.


Ready for the first session in the Steam Box. The complete process will consist of five, five to seven minute sessions in the box. After each stint you are sprayed, immersed and pumelled with cold water. 
After five to seven minutes, the attendant, who is with you during the complete process, opens the box and sprays your complete body with cold water. After this awakening, the doors are closed and you and confined for the second session.  


After the second period you are let from the box for a shocking sit in a cold water bath, while the attendant pours cold water over the part of the body that is not submerged. After two or three minutes you return to the box. 


During the times in the box you are also given a liquid called "Boldo" which is full of minerals that replace those eliminated through the pores. 


Following the third stint in the box you are led to the cold pool were you are again doused with cold water and remain there for one or two minutes. Then back to the box. 


After the forth and final session in the box your body is subjected to a steady stream of cold water. From the top of your head to the soles of your feet. 


 
After a relaxing steam box experience, it is time for a refreshing tonic at the juice bar. 

If you want to continue you can complete the experience with a 45 minute, full body massage, ($10.00), or pamper yourself with a facial. There are many more services offered...You will have to visit to find out more.

The center is open from 7AM to 7PM Sunday thru Thursday. 7AM until 3PM on Friday. Closed on Saturday.