View of the Baslica and the main plaza from my terrace.
Thursday, August 26, 2004
Tuesday, August 24, 2004
Weather Report
It has now been four months since I first arrived in Baños and I think now that I am beginning to know and feel the city. The last three days have been unforgettable and I think that the rainy season is making its departure, little by little. Saturday dawned without a cloud in the sky. You can’t imagine the beauty of the green mountains and the blue sky you see at any direction of the compass. I went to the bridge on Bascun Creek to sit and look at Tungurahua. As I neared the creek I got my first view of the snow capped peak of the volcano and was amazed at how low was the level of the snow. The clouds came and went as usual. One minute the peak was clear and the next I could see nothing but clouds. They pass quickly however, and the scene was replayed many times. There has not been much activity for the last two or three weeks and I am sure that is why the snow level is so low.
In the afternoon the clouds again covered the city. In the early hours on Sunday it was raining again. Just a gentle rain that continued on and off until afternoon, when again the clouds cleared. It was the same on Monday and as the clouds cleared in the afternoon, I walked the city. Although it rains a lot there is never any water in the streets- The water is drained through underground pipes and create waterfalls that drop into the Pastaza River on the north side of the city.
In the evening I walked out on my terrace where I have a 270 degree view of the city. From the mountains to the north, across the Pastaza to the almost vertical verdant cliffs on the south is not more than a mile and a half in distance and from the pass on the East to the pass on the West is no more than two. The sun had just set over the western mountains but the sky was cloudless and bright. Each direction I turned I could see the green mountains in the twilight- I wished for a camera but I knew that no picture would be able to capture the beauty nor the emotions of the moment. To the east was the waterfall “Manta de la Virgen” and the lighted cross at Bellevista high above. Below and to the north was the Basilica in front of the main plaza with jewel like lights. The half moon directly overhead, and the lights, like giant stars,on the side of the mountain across the Pastaza, added to the magical scene..
This beautiful city, sitting on this ledge at the foot of the giant Tungurahua Volcano takes time to know and more time to feel a part of.
Robeto
In the afternoon the clouds again covered the city. In the early hours on Sunday it was raining again. Just a gentle rain that continued on and off until afternoon, when again the clouds cleared. It was the same on Monday and as the clouds cleared in the afternoon, I walked the city. Although it rains a lot there is never any water in the streets- The water is drained through underground pipes and create waterfalls that drop into the Pastaza River on the north side of the city.
In the evening I walked out on my terrace where I have a 270 degree view of the city. From the mountains to the north, across the Pastaza to the almost vertical verdant cliffs on the south is not more than a mile and a half in distance and from the pass on the East to the pass on the West is no more than two. The sun had just set over the western mountains but the sky was cloudless and bright. Each direction I turned I could see the green mountains in the twilight- I wished for a camera but I knew that no picture would be able to capture the beauty nor the emotions of the moment. To the east was the waterfall “Manta de la Virgen” and the lighted cross at Bellevista high above. Below and to the north was the Basilica in front of the main plaza with jewel like lights. The half moon directly overhead, and the lights, like giant stars,on the side of the mountain across the Pastaza, added to the magical scene..
This beautiful city, sitting on this ledge at the foot of the giant Tungurahua Volcano takes time to know and more time to feel a part of.
Robeto
Sunday, August 22, 2004
Chicken to go.
Another favorite food is rosted chicken. There are many of these types of restaurans here and a typical meal of soup, chicken, rice, vegetable and a drink would be $1.50.
Saturday, August 21, 2004
Wednesday, August 11, 2004
Visa Requirements for Ecuador.
TOURIST VISAS
There are no visa requirements for citizens of most countries to visit Ecuador. When you first enter the country as a tourist tell the immigration officer how long you would like to stay...up to 90 days. If you would like to stay longer, (up to 180 days in any calendar year), you must go to the Jefatura Provincial de Migracion, in one of the following locations that is most convenient. In Quito, Isla Seymour 44-174 and Rio Coca. Telephone 224-47510. In Guayaquil, Av. Rio Daule by the bus terminal. Telephone 229-7004. In Cuenca, Luis Cordero 662, between Presidente Cordova and Juan Jarmillo. Telephone 831020.
RESIDENT/IMMIGRANT VISAS
Foreign nationals may apply to settle in Ecuador and obtain resident status. Resident visas are approved by the Immigration Board in Ecuador. The documentation process takes at least 4 to 8 weeks.
There are a number of different resident visa categories, including:
10I Retired persons who receive pensions from their native countries (pension from a stable source, at least USD 8,000 per year).
10II Real estate and securities investors who are willing to invest in Ecuador the equivalent of at least 350 minimum monthly general salaries (S.M.V.G.), plus 100 SMVG per dependant, or amount specified by Consular Officer (in the U.S. at least USD 15,000).
10III Investors in industry who wish to export agricultural products, livestock, or minerals, provided they bring capital the equivalent of at least 600 minimum monthly general salaries to Ecuador, or amount specified by Consular Officer (in the U.S. at least USD 25,000).
10IV Companies with foreign local agents who possess unlimited power of attorney to represent the company in Ecuador, provided that 80% of the company's local personnel are Ecuadorian.
10IV Technicians or technical experts under contract with a company established in Ecuador.
10V Professionals with university degrees recognized by a national university, who wish to practice their profession in Ecuador. Should the applicant's profession not exist in Ecuador, the degree must be locally certified. The applicant must also fulfill the requirements for such practice (e.g. bar).
10VI Individuals economically dependent on spouses or on a bloodrelated family member (family).
There are no visa requirements for citizens of most countries to visit Ecuador. When you first enter the country as a tourist tell the immigration officer how long you would like to stay...up to 90 days. If you would like to stay longer, (up to 180 days in any calendar year), you must go to the Jefatura Provincial de Migracion, in one of the following locations that is most convenient. In Quito, Isla Seymour 44-174 and Rio Coca. Telephone 224-47510. In Guayaquil, Av. Rio Daule by the bus terminal. Telephone 229-7004. In Cuenca, Luis Cordero 662, between Presidente Cordova and Juan Jarmillo. Telephone 831020.
RESIDENT/IMMIGRANT VISAS
Foreign nationals may apply to settle in Ecuador and obtain resident status. Resident visas are approved by the Immigration Board in Ecuador. The documentation process takes at least 4 to 8 weeks.
There are a number of different resident visa categories, including:
10I Retired persons who receive pensions from their native countries (pension from a stable source, at least USD 8,000 per year).
10II Real estate and securities investors who are willing to invest in Ecuador the equivalent of at least 350 minimum monthly general salaries (S.M.V.G.), plus 100 SMVG per dependant, or amount specified by Consular Officer (in the U.S. at least USD 15,000).
10III Investors in industry who wish to export agricultural products, livestock, or minerals, provided they bring capital the equivalent of at least 600 minimum monthly general salaries to Ecuador, or amount specified by Consular Officer (in the U.S. at least USD 25,000).
10IV Companies with foreign local agents who possess unlimited power of attorney to represent the company in Ecuador, provided that 80% of the company's local personnel are Ecuadorian.
10IV Technicians or technical experts under contract with a company established in Ecuador.
10V Professionals with university degrees recognized by a national university, who wish to practice their profession in Ecuador. Should the applicant's profession not exist in Ecuador, the degree must be locally certified. The applicant must also fulfill the requirements for such practice (e.g. bar).
10VI Individuals economically dependent on spouses or on a bloodrelated family member (family).
Sunday, August 01, 2004
Look to your books for the light of tomorrow.
Life here in Baños is still wonderful. We had an earthquake the other night that woke most everyone. No damage and it only lasted for a few seconds. I thought it was Tungurahua acting up but as far as I have been able to tell that was not the case. Just an earthquake nothing more. One of the natives here explained to me that it was just anouncing the change in weather. Now that is pretty scientific. The last two days have been beautiful with the rain coming mostly at night and the early morning.
After three months here the things that I miss most are my books. I had to leave most of them behind in Mexico because of the weight. That reminded me of all of the yard sales in the USA where you could buy books of all descriptions for as little as $025, I got a little homesick. There are no bookstores here, however several of the restaurants that cater to the visitors have used books for trade or rent. The Restaurant Good allows you to read while you dine. It is a great way to get you to come back until you finish the book. I have found on several occasions I have got two-thirds through a book and then rented it for $1.75 so that I could take it out and finish it.
There is a very small public library here that I visited two days ago. I had passed it many times and finally stopped in. I found to my surprise that they did have a few books in English and if I left my identification I could take one home. The number of books that they have in all languages is small however, so I decided to do a little anonymous volunteer work. If any of you out there believe, as I do, that books are the key to knowledge, and would like to donate a book, in any language, send it to: Municipio de Baños de Agua Santa Biblioteca, Baños de Agua Santa, Tungurahua, Ecuador.
Baños Library. The librarian has been here for 16 years.
After three months here the things that I miss most are my books. I had to leave most of them behind in Mexico because of the weight. That reminded me of all of the yard sales in the USA where you could buy books of all descriptions for as little as $025, I got a little homesick. There are no bookstores here, however several of the restaurants that cater to the visitors have used books for trade or rent. The Restaurant Good allows you to read while you dine. It is a great way to get you to come back until you finish the book. I have found on several occasions I have got two-thirds through a book and then rented it for $1.75 so that I could take it out and finish it.
There is a very small public library here that I visited two days ago. I had passed it many times and finally stopped in. I found to my surprise that they did have a few books in English and if I left my identification I could take one home. The number of books that they have in all languages is small however, so I decided to do a little anonymous volunteer work. If any of you out there believe, as I do, that books are the key to knowledge, and would like to donate a book, in any language, send it to: Municipio de Baños de Agua Santa Biblioteca, Baños de Agua Santa, Tungurahua, Ecuador.
Baños Library. The librarian has been here for 16 years.
Thursday, July 29, 2004
Tungurahua...Ecuador`s Most Active Volcano
This past week the seismic activity at Tungurahua were at low levels. A few sporadic long-period earthquakes were related to small emissions from the volcano. There are tours every night that take you to a good vantage point to view the fiery displays. There is no guarantee that there will be an eruption or that if there is you will be able to see it. At this time of year there are generally clouds hovering above the crater witch makes viewing the emissions impossible. The tour is only $4.00 and if the clouds clear you can get beautiful pictures.
Tuesday, July 27, 2004
Travel Guide for Baños
Earlier this year the owners of Luna Runtun published their annual edition of the Baños Travel Guide. This 68 page booklet with 69 full color pictures of the volcanos, waterfalls, jungle, and the people, who have lived here forever, in this pristine verdant paradise. This guide is available in most of the tourist areas around town for $2.50. This is the best piece available on the area and if you are interested in having one, before you make the trip or would just like to see what paradise looks like, I will send one to you for $5.00 Certified Snail Mail. This price is valid to any country in the Americas. The mail from here takes two to three weeks but is very reliable. Just click on the "Buy Now" button and I will get it out to you.
Wednesday, July 21, 2004
Enjoy Baños Slowly
I have found, in the three months that I have been here, that there are more things to do than most visitors ever consider, and a week may not be long enough see them all.
For example, you can take a taxi and race through the “Avenue of the Waterfalls” in two hours for $18, or take a bicycle and do it in a day. You can take an ATV and see it all in half a day, or you can pack a lunch and walk and visit one or two a day. You have options, but to really experience, and appreciate the beauty of this area, that changes constantly as the clouds pass overhead, takes time. You would never believe that there were so many shades of green.
Baños is not just a place for the river runner or backpacker looking for thrills and adventure, it is also a place for artists and photographers, nature lovers of all types and, an ideal place to seclude oneself to write a book.
I started out one Saturday morning and walked to the dam, it was mostly down hill and I knew that whenever I wanted to go back I could catch the urban bus for $0.21 cents and be back in town in 15 minutes. On the way I took a side trip to see three of the waterfalls that are a thirty-minute walk from the hiway. On the way, six horses and one 4-wheeler passed me. One girl on a bicycle turned around halfway up. The trail was a little to steep to ride so instead of pushing the bike she turned around. On the way back to the hiway I met a farmer going to town and he told me that of all the modes of transportation the tourist use to see these places the car is the worst.
For example, you can take a taxi and race through the “Avenue of the Waterfalls” in two hours for $18, or take a bicycle and do it in a day. You can take an ATV and see it all in half a day, or you can pack a lunch and walk and visit one or two a day. You have options, but to really experience, and appreciate the beauty of this area, that changes constantly as the clouds pass overhead, takes time. You would never believe that there were so many shades of green.
Baños is not just a place for the river runner or backpacker looking for thrills and adventure, it is also a place for artists and photographers, nature lovers of all types and, an ideal place to seclude oneself to write a book.
I started out one Saturday morning and walked to the dam, it was mostly down hill and I knew that whenever I wanted to go back I could catch the urban bus for $0.21 cents and be back in town in 15 minutes. On the way I took a side trip to see three of the waterfalls that are a thirty-minute walk from the hiway. On the way, six horses and one 4-wheeler passed me. One girl on a bicycle turned around halfway up. The trail was a little to steep to ride so instead of pushing the bike she turned around. On the way back to the hiway I met a farmer going to town and he told me that of all the modes of transportation the tourist use to see these places the car is the worst.
Thursday, July 15, 2004
Today in Baños
Rain last night and early this morning. Beautiful sunny day from 10 to 3. Rain and sun at the same time at 4 in the afternoon. That is the weather pattern here in Baños. It is never boring. What do the locals do when it rains? They do exactly the same things as when it doesn’t. One Friday afternoon a few weeks ago, there was a parade...all of the schools participated and it was quite good. There were dancing young people in all sorts of uniforms and some groups in Indian traditional dress doing folkloric dances. It rained off and on all day, but they never missed a beat, and as far as I could see no ones spirit was dapened..
This is the rainy season...from June through August I have been told. It is not a heavy rain. Sometimes just a drizzle. Never the gully washers that that I have experienced in desert areas. Coming from a place that rains twice a year it is taking a little getting used to. I still have not bought an umbrella...I dont know why. Maybe I am cheap....cost is $2.50 to $3.00 on the street. Or maybe I believe it will stop in a minute or two and then what am I going to do with an umbrella. I know I am not organized enough to take it with me each time I leave the house, especially if the sun is shining.
The tourist also seems to take it in stride. They may linger a little longer over breakfast but they all seem to enjoy whatever they are doing without complaining about something they can do nothing about.
When is the last time you just sat and watched the clouds. In Mexico, where I lived before I moved here, there were few clouds and fewer cloudy days. Here in Baños I have yet to see a day with out a constant parade drifting from the east to the northwest. Today I sat for an hour watching the ever changing shapes. Like silent slow motion explosions. You turn away for a minute and the whole scene changes. This could be a whole new activity...cloud watching.
I am still, after almost three months here, amazed at how green and beautiful it is. You can stand in the middle of the city, and any direction you look you see the greenest mountains you could ever imagine.
Mosquitoes are not a problem here, at least during May, June and July. I will let you know if there is a problem in other months.
During the past week, the volcanic and seismic activity at Tungurahua continued at moderate levels, including small explosions that resulted in light ash fall on many communities but nothing here in Baños. According to reports there were about 100 long-period earthquakes per day. Incandescence in the crater was observed at night on several occasions.
That is it for now.
This is the rainy season...from June through August I have been told. It is not a heavy rain. Sometimes just a drizzle. Never the gully washers that that I have experienced in desert areas. Coming from a place that rains twice a year it is taking a little getting used to. I still have not bought an umbrella...I dont know why. Maybe I am cheap....cost is $2.50 to $3.00 on the street. Or maybe I believe it will stop in a minute or two and then what am I going to do with an umbrella. I know I am not organized enough to take it with me each time I leave the house, especially if the sun is shining.
The tourist also seems to take it in stride. They may linger a little longer over breakfast but they all seem to enjoy whatever they are doing without complaining about something they can do nothing about.
When is the last time you just sat and watched the clouds. In Mexico, where I lived before I moved here, there were few clouds and fewer cloudy days. Here in Baños I have yet to see a day with out a constant parade drifting from the east to the northwest. Today I sat for an hour watching the ever changing shapes. Like silent slow motion explosions. You turn away for a minute and the whole scene changes. This could be a whole new activity...cloud watching.
I am still, after almost three months here, amazed at how green and beautiful it is. You can stand in the middle of the city, and any direction you look you see the greenest mountains you could ever imagine.
Mosquitoes are not a problem here, at least during May, June and July. I will let you know if there is a problem in other months.
During the past week, the volcanic and seismic activity at Tungurahua continued at moderate levels, including small explosions that resulted in light ash fall on many communities but nothing here in Baños. According to reports there were about 100 long-period earthquakes per day. Incandescence in the crater was observed at night on several occasions.
That is it for now.
Thursday, July 08, 2004
More info from Baños
After two and a half months here in Baños, I am becoming the local gringo viejo who can be found most anywhere. I have met several Lonely Planet “posters” who have wandered in and out of town. I had the pleasure of meeting Latitude 26 when she was here in June. A lovely lady, and I hope she comes back soon.
My project with the big house has come to standstill. There are six owners of the property and the owners in Mexico and the United States can not agree with the owners here in Ecuador. I was in the middle. A very uncomfortable place to be. On the 3rd of July I stepped back a few meters and let them battle it out. I am still here and am finding it very hard to accept the idea of living. The area is a paradise and I am finding that a family could live very well here for $500.00 per month. At the present time I have moved into the Hostel Carolina, with a large room and a terrace overlooking the city with a kitchen available if needed. Also has private bath, hot water, flush toilet and cable TV. All of this for $75.00 per month.
I also found a restaurant next door that offers a very broad menu and Internet access. If you go there for breakfast you get 15 minutes of Internet free. For any other meal you can use the Internet at no cost while waiting for your meal to be served. The name is T. J.´s on 16 de Deciembre.
I am sorry that I have had to pass up some good discussions on this branch because I do not have direct Internet access. I hope to get settled into somewhere soon where I can have my on line and be a participant again.
Roberto.
My project with the big house has come to standstill. There are six owners of the property and the owners in Mexico and the United States can not agree with the owners here in Ecuador. I was in the middle. A very uncomfortable place to be. On the 3rd of July I stepped back a few meters and let them battle it out. I am still here and am finding it very hard to accept the idea of living. The area is a paradise and I am finding that a family could live very well here for $500.00 per month. At the present time I have moved into the Hostel Carolina, with a large room and a terrace overlooking the city with a kitchen available if needed. Also has private bath, hot water, flush toilet and cable TV. All of this for $75.00 per month.
I also found a restaurant next door that offers a very broad menu and Internet access. If you go there for breakfast you get 15 minutes of Internet free. For any other meal you can use the Internet at no cost while waiting for your meal to be served. The name is T. J.´s on 16 de Deciembre.
I am sorry that I have had to pass up some good discussions on this branch because I do not have direct Internet access. I hope to get settled into somewhere soon where I can have my on line and be a participant again.
Roberto.
Saturday, June 26, 2004
Ready to Retire
On April 25th of this year I left Cabo San Lucas, Mexico and moved to Baños de Agua Santa, Ecuador. My reason for the move was twofold. The owner of a small inn wanted me to come down and re-open it and the second was that I had been in Mexico for many years and was ready for a change. What I found here was a small town, neat, clean, very safe and very inexpensive. At least compared to Mexico, and I am sure, many places in the United States.
The country uses the US Dollar as their currency, including the coins, and although the change was made in 1999, many people, think it was the wrong thing to do.
The country is open to foreign investment and especially when the investor becomes part of the community and the money spent by the resident’s stays in the city and enriches it. I watched in Cabo San Lucas as it was invaded by three big box stores including Costco, and although everybody likes the lower prices, many business folded and thousands lost their jobs. These kinds of businesses suck off the cream and send it to other parts of the country or even worse out of the country. This kind of foreign investment is counter productive. A small percentage benefit but the majority loses...in my opinion. Sorry I just can’t stay off the soapbox when I think about this subject.
Ecuador could be a wonderful place to retire, and for the nature lover, Baños would be the perfect community.
For all of you who are looking for another place to call home...for a few of you Baños de Agua Santa could be of interest. I have posted my observations on banosecuador.blogspot.com. Feel free to e-mail me if you would like more information.
Roberto
The country uses the US Dollar as their currency, including the coins, and although the change was made in 1999, many people, think it was the wrong thing to do.
The country is open to foreign investment and especially when the investor becomes part of the community and the money spent by the resident’s stays in the city and enriches it. I watched in Cabo San Lucas as it was invaded by three big box stores including Costco, and although everybody likes the lower prices, many business folded and thousands lost their jobs. These kinds of businesses suck off the cream and send it to other parts of the country or even worse out of the country. This kind of foreign investment is counter productive. A small percentage benefit but the majority loses...in my opinion. Sorry I just can’t stay off the soapbox when I think about this subject.
Ecuador could be a wonderful place to retire, and for the nature lover, Baños would be the perfect community.
For all of you who are looking for another place to call home...for a few of you Baños de Agua Santa could be of interest. I have posted my observations on banosecuador.blogspot.com. Feel free to e-mail me if you would like more information.
Roberto
Tuesday, June 22, 2004
Casa Grande
I removed about two tons of rubish from the terrace on Sunday and Monday. There were plants growing that were more than six feet high.
Monday, June 21, 2004
Casa Chica
Photo by J. Walker
Casa Chica. This is where I lived for the first two months in Baños. It is located just behind the Casa Grande.
Sunday, May 23, 2004
Baños Ecuador
After months of planing I finally arrived in Baños on the 26th of April Since this is my first visit to Ecuador, and I had done a fair amount of research, I was still amazed at the natural beauty of the country. My first impression of Quito after descending through the clouds was a series of canyons carved by the various streams and rivers leaving numerous mesas with almost vertical drops to the canyons below. On top of these mesas were homes and buildings that seemed isolated one from the other although they were obviously connected by bridges. Where, I thought, are they going to find a large enough mesa for an airport. Upon arrival I was picked up and given a whirlwind tour of Quito, (15 minutes) and then headed for Ambato. I am going to return to Quito as soon as I can because I am sure it is worth several days, not 15 minutes.
After a night in Ambato at the hotel Florida, it was sinking in as to just how inexpensive Ecuador is compared to Mexico. The hotel was nice, clean and with an accommodating staff,...Cost $20.00 including breakfast, 12% tax and 10 % service.
Arrived Baños de Agua Santa the following afternoon. Baños has a history of 500 or more years and is situated on a shelf or ledge, surrounded on three sides by vertical drops of a 100 meters or more, and perched on the side of the Tungurahua volcano, which has been huffing and puffing for about four years. The town is about 1,700 meters elevation and the volcano is 5,016.. In the canyons below the town flows the Pastazo River that ultimately empties into the largest river in the world....The Amazon..
So this is my new home....a place of incredible beauty. It is going to be an adventure.
Baños de Agua Santa, the city.
It took a week or so before I really knew my way around. I walked the city daily and although the city is small it is surrounded by mountains. When I thought I was walking north I would be going south or east or ever west. Sometimes when I went to return to a place I was earlier in the day, I would swear that they moved the location.
Every where you look you see green, green, green. It is without a doubt the greenest place I have ever seen. The months from April to August are the rainy months, I am told, and it rains a lot. Not all day, but almost every day or night for an hour or more. The weather changes by the minute. One minute it is sunny and warm. The next it is cloudy and maybe with a little rain and twenty minutes later it is sunny. The clouds passing over the valley are always moving from east to west. Of course this is fall and almost winter in this hemisphere.. What it is like the other seasons... I will have to wait to find out.
There are only seven streets running east to west and nine from north to south. On this small ledge lives around 12,000 persons, away from the city proper in the surrounding areas are another 4,000.
The currency in use here is the US Dollar, including the coins. Ecuador has also minted coins of their own that are the same value and size as the US coins and even the pennies do have value.
All of the streets are paved and the total city is very clean, with very little dust, and very quiet. In the past, bicycles were the way to see the city quickly. One dollar per hour or $5 per day. Now the moped, four-wheelers and motorcycles are the most popular at $5 to $10 per hour....a lot more noise and there are many accidents.. Reason...no experience necessary.
During the week there are a few tourist mostly from other countries, however on the weekends the town fills up with nationals mostly from Ambato and Quito. Baños for generations has been a weekend retreat for the larger cities.
Almost every day in the night and early in the morning there are numerous explosions that will awaken you in the morning if you are a light sleeper. The first morning I was here I thought that it was Tungurahua sounding off. I dressed and left for a vantage point of the volcano to see at least the smoke and gas. It was then that I learned about the fireworks. They are set off for every saints day and fiesta....which takes care of most days.. That is one explanation,
The city is named for the hot mineral baths that are located at the south side of the city. Baños de Agua Santa. About 70 years ago the public pools were built at the base of the waterfalls. There are several pools of different temperatures where the water from the springs are mixed with the cool water of the falls so you have a choice of fresh, hot and hotter. The pools are open daily from 0430 in the morning to 1700 and from 1800 to 2200. The cost is $1.00 during the day and $1.50 in the night. The water is the color of pea soup but has no smell. You must bath with soap before entering the pool and the water is changed twice a day. I read in a newspaper article where 45,000 bodies bathed in the pools over the four day Easter Holiday, where a normal weekend would have 1,200 to 1,500 per day.
One day after I had been patronizing the saintly waters for a week or two, when I went to pay my dollar, the cashier gave me $0.50 back....what is this for I asked. She said it was because I was over 60. Now how did that secret get out.
There are about 116 hostels and small hotels. The price ranges from $2.00 per bed to forty or fifty dollars per room.. The hostels are used almost exclusively by the younger travelers who are just looking for a place to crash and move on in a day or two.
Besides the places to sleep there are two other major tourist industries, travel agencies and restaurants. The travel agencies, (about 90), are mostly for the adventurous....Raft trips on the various rivers, hikes to waterfall of which there are many, horseback riding, and of course the treks to the various volcanoes and trips into the jungle. I don’t know how many restaurants but there are a lot. The price for the average breakfast, eggs, rolls, juice, coffee, $1.50. The service is basic...the waiter will take your order, bring it to your table and that is the last you will see of him or her until you want to pay. I asked at the tourist office if tips were expected.. I was told that tips are not expected and even if you left a tip the service would remain the same. Lunch or dinner...soup, salad, chicken, roll, French fries and glass of soda... $1.50. The most expensive dish on any meal on any menu that I have found has been $5.00.
You have a sense of security within the city.. Young children roam the streets freely and walk to school without escorts. When talking to one taxi driver on the subject of security he told me there was no problem with crime here. One reason is that it is very difficult to escape the area and if they catch a thief they cut his throat and throw him into the Pastaza. That is pretty severe , however he seemed serious. There is one supper market and just inside the door is a security guard with a shotgun at the ready. He also doubles as the package checker if you bring something into the store and cart retriever.
There is a public market in the center of town and a good place to buy fruits and vegetables as well as lunch at reasonable prices. On Sundays and Wednesdays the larger farmers market is held where prices are more or less the same but the maybe a little fresher.
The architecture is a mixture of nothing special with a few exceptions. The Basilica is the notable exception. There are several parks and plazas that are always clean.. .
To the south is Tungurahua, however it is only visible from a few places within the city itself. If you go west on Martinez to its end you will find one of the best places to view the peak, if it is clear of clouds. Most of the time if you are patient, the clouds will clear and you will get a excellent view of the North slope. Since the crater is off center and opens to the southwest you cannot see it from the Baños. but because of that fact the town of Baños has been saved from destruction many times. Geologists have determined that at least for the past 1,000 years all of the eruptions have been to the southwest.
Since there is always a chance of a new crater being created on the south side, there is an evacuation route set up that hopefully get most of the people to safety, the people here live with a peace of mind. The last time the volcano posed a serious threat was in September of 1999. The town was evacuated and a few months later the townspeople returned. Nothing happened in Baños so the people are pretty blaze about Tungurahua.
Tungurahua has been sleeping fitfully for the last few months, however awoke with a start on Wednesday the 12th of May around 0830. This was the biggest explosion in a long time however only a few people in Baños took any note of it. But, I went to my favorite lookout point and saw nothing but clouds that surrounded the mountain.
The Miss Universe contestants were planing to visit the area to see the Volcano but their trip was concealed due to the eruption. There is no immediate danger of layhars or lava but the alert was raised in the area to the south to orange and here in Baños to yellow.
On Friday the 14th I walked to the end of Martinez Street at a section called “The Old Road of the Illusions” at about 1400 hours. There I leaned against a telephone pole and did not move for more than two hours.
The people that live in that area go about there business as usual but I was spellbound. I tired after an hour or so but although I wanted to leave I could not. From this vantage point, facing South, the volcano is about seven kilometers away and the winds almost always are to the southwest. Here I am close enough to see clearly the top of the mountain, but not the crater itself as it is on the northwest slope very near the top, I watched as it belched out tons of ash, smoke and gas, thousands of feet into the air. This continued for hours. Each time I thought the show was over it started again. A few kilometers away the people who live in the area to the Southwest have a clean-up job ahead, here in Baños you didn’t even need a dust cloth.
A few, have doubted the sanity of living in this area but at this time I feel the danger to life and limb is minimal. Living in Los Angeles, California waiting for the next earthquake to happen would be more terrifying in my opinion, and look at how many people live with that possibility every day.
Internet service, when I first arrived, was great. Fast, modern equipment and reasonable...$2.00 per hour. I would estimate there are about 12 different locations around town. Then on May 1st the high speed service was out. Since all the companies used the same supplier they were effectively out of business. Some reopened using telephone lines but the service is slow. At times really slow. As of today the 20th of May the satellite service has not been restored. Isn’t it funny how we become accustomed to a better service and complain about the service that we were ecstatic with just a few years ago.
Telephone service is great. There are many places to make a telephone cal and depending where you are calling it can be quite inexpensive. Step into the booth, dial the country code, area code and the number. They charge by the second, so if you get a wrong number or an answering machine the cost is only a few pennies. The per minute rate to the USA is $0.25 and to Mexico is $0.60, Cuba $1.32. The country you call determines the rate.
THE PEOPLE OF BANOS.
I am not a pushy person. I like to get to know people little by little. When I first arrived, I offered a Good Morning to everyone, and few acknowledged. After almost a month of walking these streets some of the people offer a greeting first. I am sure that more than a few people are curious who this old guy is who has invaded their town, but little by little I have struck up conversations with different people and my list of potential friends is getting longer every day. What I had thought was a rather cold reception I was getting, was just caution. They see new faces everyday, and 99% are gone in two days.
For all of my Mexican friends out there you may find this fact humorous. I have not heard one “Chingada Mandre” in the month I have been here. The people here seem to be able to express themselves without the use of gross words, or they have their own, and I do not know them. The Americans as well seem to have a more refined vocabulary. In Cabo San Lucas, Mexico the natives and the gringos could not carry on a conversation without using these words. Now don’t get me wrong, I was in the US Navy for four years in the early 50’s and I know all of the words in the book and am not shocked by them. I just have grown to appreciate words that give a clearer meaning to what you have to say. Now, if you really wanted to curse or insult someone what words would you use? You would have to invent new ones because all of the old ones have lost their meaning due to overuse. One thing that is the same is the popularity of the English rap CD’s.. The words are in English and mean nothing to most, just a catchy beat.
Some of the indigenous poor come in from the hills to beg. Not a lot but enough to make you feel like helping. and I have always longed to be a philanthropist. However I lack the one ingredient for this noble profession. Everyday I see how I could dispose of many hundreds or thousands of dollars in a good cause. But there are some things that we all can do. For example “shoe shines”, I wish I had more pairs of shoes. There are shoe shine stands in the park operated by mostly older women and appear to do a pretty good business at $0.30 cents a shine. And I presume are legitimate businesses. The independents are a different story. These are young and old men who are trying to make a few bucks, are out day and night looking for a pair of shoes to shine. They are not offensive but they look at your shoes and if they need shining they just look at you and point. The knee-jerk reaction is to say “no thank you.”. But come on., more often than not they do need shinning and where else can you get a shine for 30 cents.
Automobiles do seem to have the right-of-way. If you are crossing the street the driver honks and you better move because he will most likely not slow down, There have been several times that I have almost got my heels clipped. I’ll learn.
My reason for this site is to entice you to visit Baños. If you have any questions or comments please feel free to respond.
After a night in Ambato at the hotel Florida, it was sinking in as to just how inexpensive Ecuador is compared to Mexico. The hotel was nice, clean and with an accommodating staff,...Cost $20.00 including breakfast, 12% tax and 10 % service.
Arrived Baños de Agua Santa the following afternoon. Baños has a history of 500 or more years and is situated on a shelf or ledge, surrounded on three sides by vertical drops of a 100 meters or more, and perched on the side of the Tungurahua volcano, which has been huffing and puffing for about four years. The town is about 1,700 meters elevation and the volcano is 5,016.. In the canyons below the town flows the Pastazo River that ultimately empties into the largest river in the world....The Amazon..
So this is my new home....a place of incredible beauty. It is going to be an adventure.
Baños de Agua Santa, the city.
It took a week or so before I really knew my way around. I walked the city daily and although the city is small it is surrounded by mountains. When I thought I was walking north I would be going south or east or ever west. Sometimes when I went to return to a place I was earlier in the day, I would swear that they moved the location.
Every where you look you see green, green, green. It is without a doubt the greenest place I have ever seen. The months from April to August are the rainy months, I am told, and it rains a lot. Not all day, but almost every day or night for an hour or more. The weather changes by the minute. One minute it is sunny and warm. The next it is cloudy and maybe with a little rain and twenty minutes later it is sunny. The clouds passing over the valley are always moving from east to west. Of course this is fall and almost winter in this hemisphere.. What it is like the other seasons... I will have to wait to find out.
There are only seven streets running east to west and nine from north to south. On this small ledge lives around 12,000 persons, away from the city proper in the surrounding areas are another 4,000.
The currency in use here is the US Dollar, including the coins. Ecuador has also minted coins of their own that are the same value and size as the US coins and even the pennies do have value.
All of the streets are paved and the total city is very clean, with very little dust, and very quiet. In the past, bicycles were the way to see the city quickly. One dollar per hour or $5 per day. Now the moped, four-wheelers and motorcycles are the most popular at $5 to $10 per hour....a lot more noise and there are many accidents.. Reason...no experience necessary.
During the week there are a few tourist mostly from other countries, however on the weekends the town fills up with nationals mostly from Ambato and Quito. Baños for generations has been a weekend retreat for the larger cities.
Almost every day in the night and early in the morning there are numerous explosions that will awaken you in the morning if you are a light sleeper. The first morning I was here I thought that it was Tungurahua sounding off. I dressed and left for a vantage point of the volcano to see at least the smoke and gas. It was then that I learned about the fireworks. They are set off for every saints day and fiesta....which takes care of most days.. That is one explanation,
The city is named for the hot mineral baths that are located at the south side of the city. Baños de Agua Santa. About 70 years ago the public pools were built at the base of the waterfalls. There are several pools of different temperatures where the water from the springs are mixed with the cool water of the falls so you have a choice of fresh, hot and hotter. The pools are open daily from 0430 in the morning to 1700 and from 1800 to 2200. The cost is $1.00 during the day and $1.50 in the night. The water is the color of pea soup but has no smell. You must bath with soap before entering the pool and the water is changed twice a day. I read in a newspaper article where 45,000 bodies bathed in the pools over the four day Easter Holiday, where a normal weekend would have 1,200 to 1,500 per day.
One day after I had been patronizing the saintly waters for a week or two, when I went to pay my dollar, the cashier gave me $0.50 back....what is this for I asked. She said it was because I was over 60. Now how did that secret get out.
There are about 116 hostels and small hotels. The price ranges from $2.00 per bed to forty or fifty dollars per room.. The hostels are used almost exclusively by the younger travelers who are just looking for a place to crash and move on in a day or two.
Besides the places to sleep there are two other major tourist industries, travel agencies and restaurants. The travel agencies, (about 90), are mostly for the adventurous....Raft trips on the various rivers, hikes to waterfall of which there are many, horseback riding, and of course the treks to the various volcanoes and trips into the jungle. I don’t know how many restaurants but there are a lot. The price for the average breakfast, eggs, rolls, juice, coffee, $1.50. The service is basic...the waiter will take your order, bring it to your table and that is the last you will see of him or her until you want to pay. I asked at the tourist office if tips were expected.. I was told that tips are not expected and even if you left a tip the service would remain the same. Lunch or dinner...soup, salad, chicken, roll, French fries and glass of soda... $1.50. The most expensive dish on any meal on any menu that I have found has been $5.00.
You have a sense of security within the city.. Young children roam the streets freely and walk to school without escorts. When talking to one taxi driver on the subject of security he told me there was no problem with crime here. One reason is that it is very difficult to escape the area and if they catch a thief they cut his throat and throw him into the Pastaza. That is pretty severe , however he seemed serious. There is one supper market and just inside the door is a security guard with a shotgun at the ready. He also doubles as the package checker if you bring something into the store and cart retriever.
There is a public market in the center of town and a good place to buy fruits and vegetables as well as lunch at reasonable prices. On Sundays and Wednesdays the larger farmers market is held where prices are more or less the same but the maybe a little fresher.
The architecture is a mixture of nothing special with a few exceptions. The Basilica is the notable exception. There are several parks and plazas that are always clean.. .
To the south is Tungurahua, however it is only visible from a few places within the city itself. If you go west on Martinez to its end you will find one of the best places to view the peak, if it is clear of clouds. Most of the time if you are patient, the clouds will clear and you will get a excellent view of the North slope. Since the crater is off center and opens to the southwest you cannot see it from the Baños. but because of that fact the town of Baños has been saved from destruction many times. Geologists have determined that at least for the past 1,000 years all of the eruptions have been to the southwest.
Since there is always a chance of a new crater being created on the south side, there is an evacuation route set up that hopefully get most of the people to safety, the people here live with a peace of mind. The last time the volcano posed a serious threat was in September of 1999. The town was evacuated and a few months later the townspeople returned. Nothing happened in Baños so the people are pretty blaze about Tungurahua.
Tungurahua has been sleeping fitfully for the last few months, however awoke with a start on Wednesday the 12th of May around 0830. This was the biggest explosion in a long time however only a few people in Baños took any note of it. But, I went to my favorite lookout point and saw nothing but clouds that surrounded the mountain.
The Miss Universe contestants were planing to visit the area to see the Volcano but their trip was concealed due to the eruption. There is no immediate danger of layhars or lava but the alert was raised in the area to the south to orange and here in Baños to yellow.
On Friday the 14th I walked to the end of Martinez Street at a section called “The Old Road of the Illusions” at about 1400 hours. There I leaned against a telephone pole and did not move for more than two hours.
The people that live in that area go about there business as usual but I was spellbound. I tired after an hour or so but although I wanted to leave I could not. From this vantage point, facing South, the volcano is about seven kilometers away and the winds almost always are to the southwest. Here I am close enough to see clearly the top of the mountain, but not the crater itself as it is on the northwest slope very near the top, I watched as it belched out tons of ash, smoke and gas, thousands of feet into the air. This continued for hours. Each time I thought the show was over it started again. A few kilometers away the people who live in the area to the Southwest have a clean-up job ahead, here in Baños you didn’t even need a dust cloth.
A few, have doubted the sanity of living in this area but at this time I feel the danger to life and limb is minimal. Living in Los Angeles, California waiting for the next earthquake to happen would be more terrifying in my opinion, and look at how many people live with that possibility every day.
Internet service, when I first arrived, was great. Fast, modern equipment and reasonable...$2.00 per hour. I would estimate there are about 12 different locations around town. Then on May 1st the high speed service was out. Since all the companies used the same supplier they were effectively out of business. Some reopened using telephone lines but the service is slow. At times really slow. As of today the 20th of May the satellite service has not been restored. Isn’t it funny how we become accustomed to a better service and complain about the service that we were ecstatic with just a few years ago.
Telephone service is great. There are many places to make a telephone cal and depending where you are calling it can be quite inexpensive. Step into the booth, dial the country code, area code and the number. They charge by the second, so if you get a wrong number or an answering machine the cost is only a few pennies. The per minute rate to the USA is $0.25 and to Mexico is $0.60, Cuba $1.32. The country you call determines the rate.
THE PEOPLE OF BANOS.
I am not a pushy person. I like to get to know people little by little. When I first arrived, I offered a Good Morning to everyone, and few acknowledged. After almost a month of walking these streets some of the people offer a greeting first. I am sure that more than a few people are curious who this old guy is who has invaded their town, but little by little I have struck up conversations with different people and my list of potential friends is getting longer every day. What I had thought was a rather cold reception I was getting, was just caution. They see new faces everyday, and 99% are gone in two days.
For all of my Mexican friends out there you may find this fact humorous. I have not heard one “Chingada Mandre” in the month I have been here. The people here seem to be able to express themselves without the use of gross words, or they have their own, and I do not know them. The Americans as well seem to have a more refined vocabulary. In Cabo San Lucas, Mexico the natives and the gringos could not carry on a conversation without using these words. Now don’t get me wrong, I was in the US Navy for four years in the early 50’s and I know all of the words in the book and am not shocked by them. I just have grown to appreciate words that give a clearer meaning to what you have to say. Now, if you really wanted to curse or insult someone what words would you use? You would have to invent new ones because all of the old ones have lost their meaning due to overuse. One thing that is the same is the popularity of the English rap CD’s.. The words are in English and mean nothing to most, just a catchy beat.
Some of the indigenous poor come in from the hills to beg. Not a lot but enough to make you feel like helping. and I have always longed to be a philanthropist. However I lack the one ingredient for this noble profession. Everyday I see how I could dispose of many hundreds or thousands of dollars in a good cause. But there are some things that we all can do. For example “shoe shines”, I wish I had more pairs of shoes. There are shoe shine stands in the park operated by mostly older women and appear to do a pretty good business at $0.30 cents a shine. And I presume are legitimate businesses. The independents are a different story. These are young and old men who are trying to make a few bucks, are out day and night looking for a pair of shoes to shine. They are not offensive but they look at your shoes and if they need shining they just look at you and point. The knee-jerk reaction is to say “no thank you.”. But come on., more often than not they do need shinning and where else can you get a shine for 30 cents.
Automobiles do seem to have the right-of-way. If you are crossing the street the driver honks and you better move because he will most likely not slow down, There have been several times that I have almost got my heels clipped. I’ll learn.
My reason for this site is to entice you to visit Baños. If you have any questions or comments please feel free to respond.
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