What´s new in Baños

It is official...I am now a legal resident of Ecuador. Shortly after arriving in Baños I realized that if I traveled the world I would probably not find a better place to call home, at least for now, then where I was. The process of becoming a legal resident is extremely simple, but not easy...the frustrations caused by typical bureaucrats, who are the same the world over, made the process an adventure. After eight trips to Quito, I walked away yesterday with my visa, and a wealth of information about the process. I realized, after the second visit that I could have saved a lot of time if I had accepted the services of one of the many lawyers that hang around the visa office, but being the stubborn person that I have always been, I elected to tough it out and do it myself. I am glad I did....I got to know Quito better and I learned a lot about Ecuadorian culture.

After the Christmas and New Years celebrations, Baños has been calm for the last three weeks. The weather has been beautiful....mostly sunny days, a few rainy nights and although the calendar says it is summer, the temperature is about the same as the middle of winter or spring....a little less rain. Three Kings Day, the 6th of January is not a big celebration here in Ecuador as it is in other Latin countries. In Mexico, it is a day for gifts for the children and the special cake with the plastic doll that is baked inside. In Columbia it is a holiday with a lot of people in the streets spraying each other with colored substances, with the festivities continuing with music and booze until the early morning. But here in Baños....nothing, if you did not look at the calendar, you would miss it altogether.

Carnival, however, is just around the corner. It will start on the 2nd or 3rd of February and end at midnight on the 8th. There are many events planned for these days but as yet there is not a firm schedule. There is a custom in Ecuador of throwing water balloons at each other and dropping them from the roofs of buildings, on the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. Here in Baños the sport has been banned because the tourist do not know weather to get angry or join in. Although the custom is officially banned, according to my friends the young people still participate. When they run out of balloons they may use eggs or avocados or what whatever they can get their hands on. One friend said it is best to stay off the streets unless you want to get wet. I will see first hand in a couple of weeks, just what happens...maybe a raincoat will be in order. It is expected, during these days that the town will be full. If you plan to visit, a reservation might be in order.

Well now that I am a resident, I plan to keep busy on some projects that I have been considering. The first is the library. My first call for books, netted a few, and I thank the donors very much.. I realize that the cost of postage can be several times the book cost so this was not a very practical idea. I would also like to find a way to put a couple of computers in the library and connect them to the internet. It will be a great investment in the future of this community. More on this later. It is a fine line that I have to walk, so as not to offend, and yet make a difference. I have made friends with a number of Bañeros who have lived here all of their lives, some young and some old. I keep remembering the book...The Ugly American....where this physically ugly Peach Corp volunteer changed the lives of a small village in SE Asia by setting about to do his work with the materials at hand. In a short time the locals were asking him how he made the improvements and when he showed them, they copied his ideas. If he had tried to force his ideas on them he would have made a difference, but not without some resentments.

This is a great town to live in, with so much natural beauty that I would hate to see it change. Everything necessary to be happy is here. We have no super markets or shopping malls...but those places just make a person want more and if you don´t have the money to buy the latest gadgets you feel deprived. I have always felt that no mater what you have, it is human nature to want more and herein lies the beginning of discontent. The solution is to get rid of some of your wants and peace returns. And that is what I have found here...the people have a decent life style and for the most part are content. The retired people living on pensions are the group that needs help most. It is sad to see them lined up at the bank to get their monthly $30 payment. Even here it is just not enough.

Welcome 2005

First of all, I want to wish everyone a very happy and prosperous 2005. As always, when I look back on the previous year it seems that it flew by, and yet when I think about all that happened, the adventures and the misadventures, it brings back so many memories that I wonder how it all could have happened in one short year. The past year was not without disappointments, but that is life, and I don’t think I would enjoy the experience half as much without a few, just to keep things in perspective. It was a great 2004 and I look forward to a greater 2005.

Here in Baños, life continues to be an adventure. The Christmas Season started somewhere near the first of November when some of the businesses put up Christmas trees, however, I did not feel the commercial undercurrents that motivates people to spend more than they can afford, even though there were plenty of advertisements on the television.

One might think that the town would be “fiesta’d out” after the eight-day birthday party, but starting Christmas Week, there were parades almost everyday, put on by the different schools in Baños and the surrounding communities. On Christmas Eve, many people go to mass at midnight and Christmas day it is business as usual for most people.

New Years Eve is another story...today I saw many cars and trucks with effigies of someone strapped to the front bumper. When I inquired as to the significance, I was told that these dolls represented someone who had given them problems during the year. It could be anyone....your wife, your husband or a politician. (All in fun I am told). At midnight these along with others, large and small will be burned after a reading of their last will and testament

During the day and night there are many people dressed in all sorts of costumes roaming the streets. During the day they will stop busses and cars with a cord stretched across the street or highway and ask for money. During the night if you are not wearing a costume you will be asked for money by those who are. If you are wearing a costume you are home free, so it could be much cheaper to make a costume and buy a mask.

After living through my first New Year’s Eve in Baños, the words that first come to mind “It’s a Riot”. Some “Barrios” really take the whole thing seriously, making elaborate displays, blocking off entire streets for their own block party.


Photo by Alex Hernandez


Photo by Alex Hernandez

This is my friend and photographer, Alex Hernandez. Anyone that would take a spike in the head so that he could save a few pennies or make a few...deserves at least a dime.

Photo by Alex Hernandez

Walking around town in the early evening, trying my best to dodge the hoards of ghouls who are bent on extracting money whenever they catch you, I realized I had better find somewhere to change my dollars into smaller coins. These are not just children ....these are people of all ages who are definitely young at heart. During my wanderings I saw all sorts of effigies....In front of one restaurant I saw what appeared to be the chef. In front of the market was the likeness of the manager and the butcher. Of course there were likenesses of the local police, the jailer and of course the President. Even Bart Simpson with his slingshot and two of his victims were represented...all awaiting their fiery demise.


Photo by Alex Hernandez


Photo by Alex Hernandez

Around 11:30PM, I went to the roof of the building where I live, which gave me a view of the whole city and waited for the climax. From there, I could hear at least four different bands at various points in the city. Thousands of people were in the streets and fireworks were erupting from everywhere. This went on for about a half hour and at 12 midnight, bonfires were set on every street and the effigies creamated.


Photo by Alex Hernandez

The music continued for several hours before things started to quiet down. It was a wonderful experience and although the booze flowed freely, I saw no fights or wanton disregard for the rights of others.

New Years Day....after a cloudy beginning, the clouds cleared and we had a beauty sunny day....a wonderful beginning for 2005. With the exception of the Santa Maria Supper Market which was closed....business was normal. Because of the long holiday weekend, the city was packed.